taboo in Tibet two years ago in the insurrection 
mno, 2010. September 11, Zoltan Shepherd The first one will start to perceive the distances at which review of the Beijing-Lhasa train between. The 4,200 mile journey, time is up quickly. Three-quarters of the train is full of mostly Chinese tourists. Europeans see it too, but this is not typical. Tibet as a whole from a few of the old continent.
The line was opened last step in a few years ago, really amazing work. This is the world's highest train running: sometimes we are over five thousand feet. Accordingly, there is little oxygen. So he feels bad, to give a mask: the lack of oxygen headache, fatigue and somnolence associated with leaden. And every year tourists die from lung or agyembóliában. This is to prepare against a possible but not really defend themselves. Important advice that if someone feels bad, then go down. Two or three hundred feet may also help.
The Chinese will leave nothing to chance. Already at the beginning of the road with everyone poured out of a paper to the person traveling at your own risk. In other words, if kegyeskedne die, they can not be sure. The document fills everyone, because he still is our life are involved.
The train is well equipped to büfékocsiban great success here, everyone is asking me to Hungarian paper money. I did not expect such interest, so after a while left in the telefonszámcsere. Meanwhile, the landscape changes, the cities below. We are increasingly more and more of the jakcsorda. Already in Tibet Autonomous Region People's Republic of China through the scooters. Inhabited almost did not even see. Forty-six hours after Lhasa appears only once. Already looking to the mysticism of the monks, who are able to winter clothes in a thread filozofálni the snow. Keserítsek that everyone should be! I met no one. The station and the nearby Chinatown district is rather similar. The capital city of the twenty to thirty percent of the population may be Chinese, they have the government give tax incentives to settle in Tibet, but in most cases can not tolerate more than two or three years. Because the climate is very bad. A scarce summer months apart from cold, sometimes unbearably cold. So the Chinese are going to come out as well. In contrast, the Tibetans, but rather they go. The Dalai Lama's departure in 1959 After many refugees in India, Nepal and other countries in the world. Unfortunately, many intellectuals, especially monks. The locals are feeling their absence. The situation in Tibet Csangos situation reminds me of, Moldavia, where it can not remain alarmingly young people and university graduates.
So here I am in Lhasa, the citadel of Buddhism. The hotel is in the Tibetan quarter. Jakvajat sold on the street, everywhere, and many of the pilgrims. Nearby are a monastery. Dozens of Chinese soldiers at the entrance. From here started out in the 2008 uprising, therefore, the military presence. Fundamentally all quiet now, although there is discussion as to who started the clashes two years ago. The Chinese, Tibetans and blaming them. The whole world's around the pictures, as the indigenous population in shops, houses were lit up. They say this is only a reaction. Peaceful protest, which the Chinese have responded to violence. So all hell broke loose. Several streets in Lhasa was in flames, especially the anger of the Chinese Han nationality, or religion in the Muslim huikra directed. The latter are run in the downtown shops. Since foreign journalists were not allowed into Tibet at that time, it is difficult to reconstruct what happened.
also complicate the analysis, that the last time the Tibetans would be complete consistency. The Dalai Lama, for example, explicitly rejects the use of force, he is always talking about autonomy, while the vérmesebbek always ready to expel the Chinese from Tibet, and then to creating an independent state. The subsequent descriptions reported that Tibetans were arrested or shot. The number of victims is now
there are no data. Are some who tucatról, some people speak hundreds of doors across. In any event, I was looking for clues to the bloody events is apparent. The street clashes in one of today does not resemble anything that was of men on the sidewalk. Everything restored to normal life going on. I tried to inquire, but I have found everywhere rejected. The people here quickly understands that political positions do not really wait for the locals, because they would only get embarrassed. One of the shops stayed somewhat longer, even bought, and faggatóztam, whether what you remember. Of course, anything would be left out if the date of the emlékezetükből. In any event, it was strange to see that after I made a circle and quarter of an hour passed again in front of the shop, the soldiers stood at the entrance. Maybe the owner called them off, saying it is a foreign thing they ask all sorts of confused.
Entry permit is currently the only way to get people to Tibet, though indirectly receives attendant. So he always had the feeling that watching. Apart from that Tibet is indeed a miracle: the world of the monasteries, a quiet life with the locals. This type of seclusion in sharp contrast to the Chinese world. Modernity they represent, they bring the money to build roads, factories or mines opened. Which of course is not an easy task, since such a height is not much. Huge unemployment, inflation elszaladóban. In the countryside most of the locals live their lives so that only camp to eat and to drink tea jakvajas. I would add that Csoma lived for ten years to do so ... In any event, the Camp is not marching into my favorites. This is nothing but roasted in the husk of barley flour produced. Jakvajat make a dish, so hot water is poured. Then the liquid without forming lumps of flour are mixed and little balls of dough are shaped. Well, this is the main food of the locals! People, if they go a long way, they carry with them the balls in a special bag. If you are tired, leheverednek and only takes out his balls. If you have a small tea nearby, then we can talk about feast. Although many Tibetan yak lasts, the more the meat is sold. Not really, there is another, which maintain themselves. At the foot of the Himalayas, many plants can not thrive. True, virtually all the major cities are available. Today, good roads linking Tibet to China's other provinces, so you buy the man in Beijing, Lhasa, it also can buy.
popular technical products. For example, each mobile phone is a monk. Why? On the one hand to fiddle with, play with him, and in many cases this is the means of contact outside the Tibetan community. TV, radio channels can not reach here from India or Nepal. Only Tibetan language newspaper, but it is actually a translation of the Chinese but, so the locals do not really deal with the problems. In most cases, the Tibetans do not get a passport or visa, so many people choose to escape through the Himalayas. Families torn apart, sad fates of human emerges.
Lhasa, the biggest crowd is always a crowd around the Potala Palace. That was until 1959 the Dalai Lama and the government arena. Thirteen-storey building is impressive. 999 rooms, according to the locals built in one night.
the palace around a lot of pilgrims, sometimes coming quite a distance. If the family is sick, it is almost mandatory to come here, even thousands of kilometers away. And since walking and crawling on the ground that the Buddhist tradition, praying you make your way up to a year and a half, it may take. During the day, are not open to feed themselves, and the elbows, knees anynyira felsebzi the earth, that many strong defenders put their bodies made of wood. But no one complains! The proud people of Tibet, they megedzette the time of the last millennia. Faith, their wisdom is estimated to be around the world.
The Potala Palace is now a museum, the world's largest building was a long time. Trapezoidal shape of the city from all parts visible. Against him, the other side of the red star memorial highway, a Chinese flag at the top of the palace. Tibetan flags but I see no point. It is forbidden to show off, just as the Dalai Lama's photograph did not interfere into the man-way útfél. The pilgrimage labyrinthine corridors and rooms of many connecting door. Even the king of Tibet, Szongcen Gampo built in the VII. century. Consists of two parts: the red and the white palace. The former, there are treasures: Stupas, Buddha statues made of precious metal, old books. You can find the grave of Dalai Lamas as well. One of them more than a thousand pounds of gold were used. The lama's body bebalzsamozzák - this is the only mode of burial of the biggest acts. Tibet is still the best form of sky burial. This is to cut the dead body of priests, and give them to the vultures. At that height, and can not be cold on the frozen ground to dig a grave. The ritual of the family can participate, and according to Buddhist beliefs can hardly wait to we - any other form - rebirth.
Another special mode of burial in the water. In this case, the fish is given in the body. This in turn implies that a good part of the Tibetans do not eat fish, it is unclean. Therefore, there are lakes, which can only be swarming. JAMDAT such a lake, a scorpion-shaped. Turquoise Lake is also called, but it soon will be a sad end, because the Chinese want to build hydroelectric power plants. The lake is close to Sigace, the second largest city in Tibet. This is the seat of Panchen Lama, who followed the Dalai Lama, the second most important man. Binding spectacle of 1414, the monastery was founded Tasilhumpo. Here are lots of pilgrims, a kind of second-Potala palotaként works, though not quite as fancy. The tomb is located in Panchen Lamas, and of course lots of Buddha statues and holy book. All in all a mystery spill, people imamalmokat spin, and the alleged silence of the monastery is surrounded by circles. It has been really dreamland! As the Himalayan
alaptábora well. Late afternoon is a peak in the clouds, but we depart from the camp some four or five kilometers to the hill. Maybe we'll get lucky and see the 8,850-meter peak Csomolungma. Accompanying them, according to Tibetan Milarepa, the XI-XII. century monk, poet should be considered, and you'll see a miracle. Maybe it really helped her, because after a few minutes there was a miracle before our eyes. The hill was almost close at hand Profit, kattogtak the cameras. The people here have felt it, what drives the hikers even greater heights. In contrast, Tibetans do not seem too enthusiastic. They specifically do not like daggers to the top. It is believed that the saints live at the top of the Himalayas, they are not ugrándozzanak people. A nearby mound of stones agglomerate see. Each stone represents a climber who died here. The Tibetan movement just dab, about the "they must be" determined, I read the gesture.
slowly gets dark, in a jaksátorban sleepers. No power, remain the stars. In the meantime, was very cold, the wind beats the top of the tent. That is why we have a dangerous 5,300-meter altitude of the mountain. Almost no time to change the weather, snow could fall at any time, or resurrect a stormy wind. The two food tents to choose from. Omelet and rice is dried jakhússal. Dukál near Lhasa beer, so a big bummer. The sunrise is perhaps even more fun, although it has been the world's highest monastery, the Rongbukból see where a few dozen meters in 5100 monk. A special feature is that men and women combined. Near and far there is no other place for a hermit, so the monastery has been mixed.
Tibet and its opposite is all too possible!
MTI, 2010. September 15 
